Parts and Supplies
The parts listed in the common section below can be obtained
from a number of suppliers. Rubber parts are cheap, and you should
just replace all of them. Don't make the supplier work too hard looking
up part numbers - the descriptions should be good enough.
Common stuff/ordinary maintenance
|Bally Part #
||Ball shooter tip - small hole - brown or white
||Rebound rubber - brown or white.
||5/16" white rings for yellow posts
||5/16" grey(dead rubber) rings for red posts. "dead rubber" is less bouncy. May be very hard to find. You can use the standard 5/16" white rings above (and you may find hitting
hole #16 is a little easier :-))
||1" white rings
||3" white rings - only used on Shoot-A-Line
|Bally Part #
||Bally: 1-1/8" diameter. NOTE: a standard pinball is 1-1/16". In general, these won't work. The row of balls in the ball trough will not line up correctly over the trough switches
United: 1-1/16" diameter standard pinballs on some games, 1-1/8" on others. You'll need
the manual or look inside the game for a paper tag that says.
|Bally Part #
||#47 lamps. People often replace all the #55 lamps with these.
They are a little less bright, but not as hot, so they don't burn the backglass/melt
the playfield light sheilds. They usually come in boxes of 10 or big
bags of 100 or more.
If you really like the brighter 55's, I'd at least change out the playfield lamps to #47's.
The remaining GI (general illumination/always on) lamps in the head are your decision. You probably aren't running the game lots of hours/day...then again, the ink on the backglass probably isn't as solid as it originally was.
If you have an OK/red letter
game, you'll need red #55's for those six lamps due to the way the circuit is designed, and the
associated six clear lamps need to be #47's.
Red ones are hard to find, so you may need to paint them yourself - or apply a few
coats with a red permanent marker.
||#1464/#1458 lamps. These are usually the light bulbs used on the
bingo cards. They are on a 17V circuit. #1458 and #1464 lamps
can be used interchangably. The #1458 is slightly brighter.
#1464's I recently got from pinball resource.
|foot rail wing nuts
||size 10/24. used to screw down the foot rail
|leather clutch washers
||up to 16
||usually 3/8" inside/hole diameter, 1-1/2" outside diameter. Usually you'd replace
one or two...if any. The washer for the spotting wiper clutch seems to get the most wear.
||3/8"-16 (16 threads per inch) x length, where length is:"
2-3/4" for metal legs (std pinball size)
3-1/2" for wood legs
length not counting the head of the bolt, which is supposed to be an acorn head.
for wooden legs, also use washers on the bolts.
|playfield ball runway bar screws
||#6 x 1-1/2" oval head. Use phillips screws.
The decorative washers under the oval screw head are called #6 finish washers.
most common size is 21 x 40 x 3/16"
some late machines were 21 x 41-5/8 x 3/16"
on some machines it's possible to shove in 1/4" thick glass, others not. It's always a good idea
to remove the lockdown bar and measure between the metal rails the glass slides on, and measure from the wood at head end of
the glass to a little over the wood under the lockdown bar. Make sure the glass won't cover knob/coin chute holes, but
needs to be long enough that when pushed all the way towards the head there is no gap along the bottom where a wire could be
stuck into the playfield area.
|playfield mounting screws
||#8 x 2-1/2" oval head. you'd probably have to online order if you wanted slotted screws, so use phillips which are at all hardware stores.
The decorative washers under the oval screw head are called #8 finish washers.
|playfield screws for ball shooter gauge and red ball lift chute cover
||#4 x 1/2".
||used on ball lift motor bracket and sometimes other
motor brackets - size 7/16 x 3/16"
Needed for repair/restoration work
|Switch adjuster kit
||The suppliers have these. Usually you get three to five switch blade
adjusters of different shapes so you can bend the switches as needed.
||This gadget makes it lots easier to get the lamps out
of the backbox panel insert. It's a conical rubber tube that you just
push on bulb, twist, and yank. People use all sorts of rubber tubing to accomplish
the same thing, and grippy rubber gloves are probably the easiest of all.
||I've never used one, as I prefer the Dremel tool
approach (see Overhaul section). However, if you have a badly pitted contact,
and don't want to replace it, I guess it could be useful.
||Coils should just be ordered as needed. Use the bally part numbers in the
manuals, and the suppliers will
to a replacement coil.
Coils don't fry too often on bingos. If the wire is just broken at the
solder lug, unwrap a turn of wire from the coil and solder it back on.
||Well, there are still some out there, but I don't know where they are. Your
best chance is probably using the
or the rec.games.pinball newgroup. I can put up
a for sale/wanted area if there is enough demand, or maybe consider the backglass
rescreening option (typically $200/glass).
||NOS playfield blanks are practically unheard of. I bought one a couple years
ago, and was surprised that they even existed. Since bingo playfields held
up pretty well, operators didn't buy replacements. Usually your only choice
is to find a parts machine and swap out the playfield.
||The ball lift motor can be rebuilt by moto-search (they made them) in racine,
Control unit/mixer motors made by Multiproducts can be replaced with
The sealed control unit/mixer motors on early bingos made by
Merckle can be replaced with a multiproducts motor, though you may need to
deal with the multiproducts motor having a large shaft diameter.
I don't know of a supply for the smaller feature unit motors (magic screen,
magic square, etc.) made by Molon, but those style motors were used
in slot machines, so they should be out there someplace. Fortunately,
they rarely cause a problem.